Tree Isn’t Growing Leaves

Not if the tree is dead or severely stressed. Pruning won’t fix root damage, girdling, or fungal infections. In fact, cutting too much can make things worse by removing the tree’s ability to photosynthesize and recover. If the tree is still alive but struggling, light pruning of dead branches can help, but it won’t force new growth if the underlying issue isn’t addressed. We always recommend a full assessment before any pruning. If the tree is beyond saving, we’ll tell you honestly and help you plan for safe removal and replacement.

If your tree hasn’t leafed out, the first thing you should do is check for life in the branches.

• Take a small twig and scratch the bark with your fingernail or a knife. If the tissue underneath is green and moist, the branch is alive. If it’s brown and dry, move up or down the limb and try again. Three dead spots in a row? The branch is likely dead.
• Look at the buds. They should be firm, not shriveled. Cut one open. If it’s green inside, there’s still a chance. If it’s brown and hollow, it’s probably over. This is one of the most reliable ways to assess a tree’s health early in the season.
• Check the base of the tree. Any mushrooms, cracks, or soft spots? That’s a sign of decay. Is the trunk leaning? That could mean root failure. And consider the history. Did it leaf out last year? The year before? A tree that’s been slow for two springs in a row is unlikely to recover.

It depends on the cause and how long it’s been struggling. If the tree is completely dead, no green in the branches, no buds, and signs of decay, then it’s too late. But if it’s stressed but still alive, there may be a chance. We’ll look at the roots, trunk, and canopy to determine if recovery is possible. In some cases, improving soil conditions, mulching, or treating disease can help. But if the tree has been declining for two or more seasons, or if it’s infected with something like verticillium wilt, the odds are against it.

It depends. Some trees go through a year without leafing out and come back strong the next season, especially if they’re young and the roots are healthy. This can happen after a harsh winter, drought, or when the tree puts all its energy into root growth one year. But if the tree has been slow to leaf for two springs in a row, or if the branches are brittle and the trunk shows signs of decay, recovery is unlikely.

A tree with no leaves isn’t always dead, but it is under stress. A tree doesn’t stop leafing without a reason. The first thing we look at is timing. Oaks, sycamores, and black walnuts are naturally late to leaf, sometimes not until late May. If it’s early May and your maple hasn’t leafed, that’s different than an oak in mid-June. We also check the buds and do the scratch test. Green under the bark means it’s alive. Brown and dry means it’s likely done. Other causes include winter injury, road salt damage, girdling roots, or disease like verticillium wilt. It could also be root compaction from construction or soil that stays too wet.

Not really. If a tree is truly dead, meaning the cambium layer is dead all the way around the trunk and the roots are decayed, it won’t grow leaves. But what people often see is suckers growing from the base while the main canopy stays bare. That’s not the tree recovering, it’s the roots trying to survive. The top is dead, but the root system is still alive and pushing up new growth. These suckers don’t turn into a real tree. They’re weak, poorly attached, and won’t develop a proper structure. So while it looks like something is growing, the original tree is gone.